![]() ![]() Thanks again for all the help & Best to everyone. I followed the advice of keeping the snout of a shop-vac close to the tool, and it really minimized the dust and I had the area isolated with plastic drop cloths taped in place around the doorways and stairway. The work took a long time and was very labor intensive. The walls of any pre-war house are most likely wood lath like in this picture covered with 3 coats of plaster. Plaster sags from ceilings or bulges from walls when the plaster keys embedded around the wood lath break loose. If the screw cracks the plaster as it goes in, predrill through the plaster. I cut along the inside of the joists rather than the center to leave the plaster secure, and sistered in sections of 2x4s for nailers, which I lowered 1/4" so that the installed section of drywall would match the surface level. 5 Worst Mistakes of Historic Homeowners (Part 4 Plaster) January 2, 2012. Pull loose plaster tight to the lath with plaster washers. I only manage to rattle loose a small amount of finish coat along places along the margins in a few places. It was a little slower in areas where it wasn't. Particularly where the plaster was tightly secured to a joist, it blazed right along. I changed to a titanium coated bimetal flat blade that was the ticket. I tried a 3-1/2" semi-circular diamond blade first, which worked but pretty slow when it met the metal mesh. I squared up an opening 3' by 4' using an oscillating tool. I would recommend using a strap toggle type anchor behind the bottom screw and one of the top screws. If there is not a stud in the immediate vicinity, you need to use a serious anchor. ![]() Older homes are often quieter than new homes. Considering that the typical drywall is 1/2 thick, lath offers better sound control. When combined with the lath, its closer to an inch and a quarter thick. Unless your screws hit a stud or an anchor of some sort, the bracket is decorative, not functional. A typical lath and plaster wall consists of a minimum of three coats of plaster creating a dense wall, rock hard, and nearly one inch thick. The thickness of the plaster is 3/4" which was to be replaced with 1/2" green drywall. Screws in wallboard do not support anything. If you are opening an entire area, like to create a doorway, then do the other side of the wall. Keep hitting the plaster with the hammer until it is all broken up and falling from the lath. The plumber appears to have used a hammer to bust out an area below the leak, leaving an irregular opening. Using your hammer, hit the plaster hard enough to crack it and start it to crumble. First, again thanks for all the posts and collective experience & wisdom.
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